how to align dados for shelves

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How to Irritate People

How to Irritate People
How to Irritate People DVD cover
Directed by	Ian Fordyce
Produced by	David Frost
Written by	Tim Brooke-Taylor Graham Chapman John Cleese Marty Feldman
Starring	John Cleese Tim Brooke-Taylor Graham Chapman Michael Palin Gillian Lind Connie Booth Dick Vosburgh
Release date(s)	1968
Running time	68 min.
Country	United Kingdom
Language	English

How to Irritate People is a 1968 television mockumentary written by John Cleese. It also features future Monty Python collaborators Michael Palin, Graham Chapman, and Connie Booth, as well as comic actor Tim Brooke-Taylor, later to become one of The Goodies.

In various sketches, Cleese demonstrates exactly what the title suggests - how to irritate people, although this is done in a much more conventional way than the absurdity of similar Monty Python sketches.

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Shelving
Helpful information on Shelving

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How to Build a Large Set of Built-in Bookshelves

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Things You’ll Need:

• Table saw
• Miter saw
• Skill saw
• Router & bits
• Nail gun (18 or 16 gage)
• Drill & bits
• Glue
• Tape measure
• Square
• 1/2 plywood for sides
• 3/4 plywood for shelves
• 1/2 or 3/4 MDF for face frames

Step1
General construction:

- These book cases are made from uprights that are dado-ed to hold the shelves (shelves are fixed, and on this project they are all evenly spaced).

- The uprights are made with 1/2" hardwood plywood, and the shelves are 3/4" hardwood plywood.

- The shelves and the uprights are cut to the same width. You need to take into account the thickness of the back, thickness of the face frames, and extra space to allow for variation in the back wall of the built-in location. In this case, the back is 3/8", the face frames are 1/2", and I allowed 3/8" for wall variation - totalling 1 1/4".

- The dados are 1/8 deep. This is plenty to hold the shelves, and stop them from separating when screwed in place.
Step2
When marking the uprights, I draw a line all the way across the board, and mark the dado side with an "X". This helps ensure I am routing in the right spot later.

Once you have marked all the locations, take a look at the overall board to see any mis-markings
Step3
Next, I mark the outside of the upright where I am going to nail and screw the shelves together. Marking takes a lot less time than fixing even one wrongly located nail that I have to remove, and then fix the hole.
Step4
I made a routing guide to make routing easy and consistent. Make sure the guide is square and fits the router base well (snug, but can still slide)
Step5
Align the routing guide to the lines for the dados.
Step6
Cut the dados. I used a trim router to do this, since the dados are only 1/8" deep. When possible, I like to use the smaller router for jobs, since it's easier to handle.
Step7
Here is a picture of the routed uprights. Once you route them, sand the edges of the cuts to clean them up. The sharper your bit, the less sanding you will have to do.
Step8
Tip the upright on its side and attach the shelves. I glue these with wood glue and staple them with 18 age 1/4" crown staples that are 1" long.
Step9
Once the shelves are glued and stapled in place, I put in two 1 1/4 screws to keep everything solid while I do assembly.
Step10
Once the shelves are screwed in, I lay the upright on its back. Step11 In this position, I attach the other upright - same gluing, nailing and screwing.

Is this over-kill? Maybe, but it allows for easy construction, and I would prefer to over-build a bit and not have any problems later on. Step12 Now I put the back on, which in this case is 3/8" beadboard plywood (Lowes). I cut the plywood to size, glue and staple it in place. I use 3/4" staples, spaced about 8" apart around the perimeter and 6" along each shelf. Step13 Here are two of the units standing side by side. I will make four for this project. Step14 Here is the wall opening for these the shel units. Needless to say, there is a bit of measuring and double-checking that has to go on here.

I allowed 1" side to side and 1/2" at the top on the rough opening. Notice here I lined the opening with sheetrock. The reason was to help stop sound transmission. Step15 The units will go into place with 3/8" thick plywood strips between them as shown. I put the plywood strips (cut to 2 inches wide) along the fronts - glued and stapled, but not in the back. This allows you to flex adjust each unit, to ensure it's aligned properly.

To shim the back of the units to the wall studs, I put a few wood shims in, then spray foamed (Great Stuff), along the length of the studs. This expands the fills the gap solid. I attached the shelf units to each other and the walls with 16 gage air nails (typical for mounting door frames) Step16 Here are all four units intalled. From here, I install the face frames. Step17 First, I naided on the face frame uprights. These are 1 1/2" wide MDF boards. After that, I scribe and mark each cross piece. Step18 I labeled each cross piece to know its location, then marked it. To get a very accurate cut, see my other eHow article "How to Cut a Board or Piece of Trim Accurately". Step19 I installed these with glue and 18 gage nails, then filled the holes with putty and sanded. Step20 Here is the full set installed. It looks like one large unit, since the face frames cover where each segement attaches to the next.

From here, I need to trim out the edges to the sheetrock, using a 1/4" reveal - same as the doors.